Penny-Pinching Artist

Abstract, Art, Background, Paint
Most men and women know now that private financing will be getting tighter and tighter. Everything is going up in cost, such as art materials. How are we to maintain painting, whether we’re selling our job or not?
There are a variety of ways that costs can be kept down. This report aims to explore and learn what some of these are.
Online Shopping (and really offline).
If you buy from several online providers as I do, you’ll be on their mailing lists. When discounts are operating, it’s an excellent time to buy things which are normally quite expensive, such as oil paints or quite heavy-weight watercolour paper. If you can stretch your handbag, consider bigger tubes of paint (such as 200ml) especially oils and especially if they’re the more expensive colors. The best brands will last for a long time (unless you are painting enormous yacht-sail canvases).
EBay is worth a punt, but notice that many sellers are extremely aware of what things normally go for and, although their costs may appear lower, then they need to add the postage on. A tube of paint priced #2 or so lower than the standard may not end up being a great deal of saving from the time you’ve paid #3 postage for this single product. Having said this, if you trawl frequently through the art supplies segments, you can encounter bargains. I once bought a complete set of Daler-Rowney pastel pencils for nearly half-price, only because the firm had made adjustments to the pastel formula and had ceased the present boxes of pencils.
Likewise there are branded paints which are actually very good quality, but aren’t household names to the vast majority of people… these occasionally come up for sale and are available with no rival bids simply because most individuals aren’t comfortable with them.
If you market your work, you will likely prefer artist-grade paintbut it’s not uncommon to find professional artists picking certain student-grade colors for their work only because they enjoy the colour or the handling of the paint. Student grade paints in the big names are usually excellent value; particularly in acrylics, where they frequently come in large quantity.
Piles of canvases come from several areas in the East these days. You can purchase whole boxes of them at discounted prices from online providers, including eBay.
The 1 thing I’d note is that the build quality. Many are OK; but some are badly assembled. I’ve had”square” canvases appearing anything but square. What happens is that if a single stretcher-bar is a little more than the rest, a perfect square or rectangle isn’t obtained. The subsequent canvas looks absolutely awful when hung on the wall and it’s not fit for purpose… even if you’re a penny-pinching artist.
Dud canvas? Better yet, invest in a complete roll of canvas. Expensive outlay but you will have the ability to cut off precisely what you want, if you want, and prepare it as you wish… and it may last you only years.
Another way to save is to utilize canvas-boards. They last for a long time; I have canvas-board paintings in the 1970’s and they’re absolutely fine.
You can purchase boxes of them from some online providers and eBay is not a bad place to look .
Bear in mind the edges also. If you reduce your own, use a dust mask, MDF does produce a good deal of flying particles.
However, MDF is not quite as secure as people believe. There’s a problem sometimes with what’s called substrate-induced discolouration (SID). There are a few options on the artists’ marketplace that will deal with this.
Conservation experts aren’t convinced about the long-term stability of MDF, but most people aren’t going to be painting masterpieces that will need to last for a few hundred years. Some artists find it’s too smooth for their own liking. Additionally it is possible to prepare a panel and then paste proper canvas around itthis may offer the additional tooth that some favor.
And actually really cheapskates…
It’s possible to paint oils on watercolour paper so long as you prime the surface , acrylic gesso is best. This creates a barrier, preventing (or certainly reevaluate ) destruction of this newspaper by the oils. How long it lasts for, I truly don’t know but I’d suggest not generating a lot of trainings this way; just to be on the safe side. Acrylics on watercolour paper don’t cause a problem.
There are now special papers offered for oil-painting; these seem the same as watercolour paper but have been specially treated to manage the harmful properties of oil-paint. They are not always cheap per sheet… however… a complete sheet for six or seven pounds will cut up into whatever size you need, and you will receive several work surfaces for the money.
The perfect hardboard is one without oils inside (untempered) but I don’t have any means of telling you from the other. If you use it, sand the surface , use SID therapy and provide several good coats of primer.
Attempt to use artists’ primers instead of those from a DIY shop.
It’s possible to make quite good panels by gluing sections of cotton shirts or old bedsheets on MDF or hardboard. Use pva or an acrylic medium to perform the sticking. Wrap the substance over the borders and fix to the trunk, before adding a primer on the surface.
Acrylics can be painted onto plastic surfaces, opening up several ideas for using acrylic-sheet, perspex and other similar substances. Among the best places to trawl is, again, eBay, start looking for offcuts or someone promoting panels.
Additional Media… Watercolour.
Fantastic quality watercolour paper could be costly. So why not look at the lightweight papers like 90lb? I’ve read about artists spreading water on each side of the 90lb paper and just letting it stand flat–with no taping– into a very clean smooth board like formica or marble (an older kitchen work-surface would likely do). The sheet remains in place for a reasonable length of time. Other folks don’t tape it, but only place bulldog-style clips to affix it to a board, allowing the paper to elongate, cockle and dry without fiddly taping.
There are options for developing many different surfaces that can make you less dependent on”ready-done” papers.
Gritty or grainy papers are extremely common now for pastel work. You can create your own tiled surfaces using several materials along with a kettle of pastel-primer paint. There’s a tendency to using MDF also, painted and ready with a gritty primer. Even metal and plastics will maintain a proprietary pastel-primer.
This medium really has a fantastic tooth and a few coats will most likely give you all of the grip you require.
If you are keen you can purchase a bag of 4fine-grade pumice stone and mix it with white gesso, to paint in your surfaces.
I have known people use sandpaper from the hardware store; yes it will work, but the newspaper isn’t acid-free.
Eventually… PAINT SMALLER!
The main issue is that you have the ability to find ways of maintaining your skills alive when cash is somewhat tight. If you can paint,… or perhaps just DRAW… during those times, you’ll have a group of work ready to sell when the dark clouds draw out and things improve .

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